Soy Wax Troubleshooting Always follow the recommended heating and pouring instructions. All soy waxes are not hydrogenated and formulated to the same specifications so they will vary. NEVER OVERHEAT OUR SOY WAXES AS THIS MAY CONTRIBUTE TO ALL THE PROBLEMS LISTED BELOW, TURN THE WAX DARK OR CAUSE A BURNT SMELL. Not a full melt pool or too deep of pool (ideal is .25” - .375” deep). Wick may be too small or too large. Be sure to have your test burn be of a long enough duration (larger diameter candles may take 4-5 hours). For the same sized container you may need a smaller or a larger wick depending on the fragrance oil (fragrance oils have different weights and viscosity). Too much liquid dye added Too much fragrance oil (we recommended 6% by weight). Fragrance oil added at too low of temperature. Poor fragrance throw Not enough fragrance oil added to the wax (we recommended 6% by weight). Always use weight measurement and not volume (as fragrance oil weights vs. volume vary greatly). Fragrance oil not added at the correct temperature (if the temperature is too low the wax molecules are not expanded enough to trap the fragrance oil between them as they cool). Melt pool not hot enough to allow fragrance to throw.  Wick size may be too small. Fragrance oil not suitable to be used in soy wax (soy burns cooler than paraffin so all oils that work in paraffin may not work well in soy wax). Fragrance oil leeching out of the wax Too much fragrance oil (we recommended 6% by weight.  Some oils are very heavy and have to be used at a lesser amount.) Fragrance oil not added at the correct temperature (if the temperature is too low the wax molecules are not expanded enough to trap the fragrance oil between them as they cool). Poor glass adhesion (wet spots) Wax poured at too high of temperature (when wax cools it shrinks and the hotter it is poured the more it shrinks) The area you are pouring in is too cool (soy wax seems to pour best when the ambient temperature is between 67 – 75 degrees F.) The inside of the glass container isn’t clean. If you used an additive it could be causing the wax to shrink slightly. We do not recommend preheating your containers before pouring. We have never had a customer ask us about wet spots.  This concern is more on the crafter side than the customer.  Wet spots will disappear when the candle gets warm usually. Frosting (colored candles turning white or having white spots scattered throughout) Pouring at to high of temperature (always pour soy wax at the coolest possible temperature) 100% Soy wax has a tendency to frost more than soy blends We have found that many customers thought this was a pretty effect while we were thinking the candle looked terrible.  Sell 'em! Rough tops after pouring Pouring at too high of temperature (always pour soy wax at the coolest possible temperature) 100% Soy wax has a tendency to have rougher tops than soy blends (Our Soy/Paraffin Blends doesn't exhibit this feature.) Rough tops after burning and resolidifying This is natural for Soy candles and when relit it will return to a nice liquid melt pool.  If you just can't live with it you will need to add something like beeswax or use our soy/paraffin blend. Wick mushrooming or smoking Mushrooming seems to occur with most natural wicks - some larger than others (test to determine if you can find another wick that doesn't mushroom as much and remind your customers to trim to .25” before relighting) Excessive smoke can be caused by too large of a wick or the candle is sitting in a drafty area (drafts supply more oxygen than the wick can burn causing incomplete combustion)

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